BRIDGETOWN, BARBADOS—This may well be the best of all the Caribbean islands. The usual glories of sand and surf are there in abundance, but the island’s larger size and varied topography make for fascinating touring. And it also has some absolutely terrific food, thanks to the mixture of indigenous ingredients and European know-how from the generations past who wanted their food cooked just as well as it had been back home. The combination is unbeatable.
THE CLIFF — I had heard of this legendary restaurant long before I ever arrived in Barbados and I wondered if anything could live up to its reputation. I was instantly blown away by its setting, hugging a cliff wall, overlooking the ocean. You walk in at the level of the cocktail area, then descend steep steps to a dining room that’s just close enough to the sea to be magical. And the food is just as grand. My meal began with a perfectly prepared linguine and shrimp in a subtle chive sauce, went on to a perfectly prepared barracuda steak and ended with a flaming snowball, the first ignited dessert I’ve ever really enjoyed, with a tart, adult taste. Superb service, great food and a view you’ll never forget. Yes, a complete meal will cost $140 (Canadian), but it’s truly worth it. (Derricks, St. James; (246) 432-1922; thecliffbarbados.com)
CIN CIN BY THE SEA — This is really the kind of restaurant you’d expect to find in Malibu or on Florida’s Gold Coast. It’s sleek, elegant, super-modern and blessed with floor to ceiling windows that let you enjoy the glistening sea outside. I went at lunchtime and couldn’t think of a better place to spend a sunny afternoon, especially enjoying a moist Caribbean crab cake to start, followed by some perfectly sautéed snapper that couldn’t have been fresher. And, OK, I had the white chocolate cheesecake for dessert. I’m only human. Plan on about $40 for three courses. (Prospect, St. James; (246) 424-4557; cincinbarbados.com)
BROWN SUGAR — After all the elegance of the first two places I encountered, it was a change and a treat to spend an evening enjoying real Bajan food. This popular place is down the end of a leafy road, with the genuine charm of a heritage home. And the food has the same authenticity. I began with Barbadian Hots, which are strips of local fish marinated in zesty spices and fried crisp. Then I went onto Martin’s Choice, a mixed platter of flying fish, mahi-mahi, shrimp and crab. I was told it would be a mistake to miss the Paw Paw (warm papaya) pie, so I didn’t. $50 for a complete meal that will fill you up nicely. (Bridgetown, Bay St.; (246) 426-7684; brownsugarbarbados.com)
CUZ’S FISH SHACK — One of the great culinary snacks of Barbados is a “cutter,” a salt-bread bun filled with egg, cheese, flying fish, pork, or ham and then cut in half. Some say that’s the origin of the name, others say it’s because it “cuts” your hunger. Whatever story you go with, this Bridgetown location is the best place to try one. It really is just a shack, open from 9-5 each day and there’s usually a lineup that’s well deserved. The simplicity of the peppery breading on the marlin sandwich, combined with a sprinkle of vinegar and some zesty pickles make it one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. Honest! $4 a sandwich. Amazing. (Highway 7, Needham’s Point, Bridgetown; no phone, no website.)
WATERSIDE RESTAURANT — They refer to the atmosphere here as “Caribbean Chic” and that’s an excellent definition of this sophisticated eatery. Once again, there’s an unforgettable view of the water, but the menu here is decidedly different and very skilled. Breadfruit soup with smoked marlin is an amazing starter, five-spiced braised beef short ribs was a welcome hearty alternative after all the local fish and the pistachio crème brûlée rounded things off nicely. $65 for the full meal deal. (St. Lawrence Gap, Christchurch; (246) 418-9750; watersiderest.com)
CHEFETTE — OK, I normally wouldn’t recommend a fast-food chain in this column, but this is something different. Chefette has 14 locations around the island, offering burgers, rotis, pizza etc. — but it’s their BBQ Barns that grabbed my attention. I mean, how often do you find grilled mahi-mahi on a menu like this? And, surprise! It was really tasty and only $15 for a giant portion. Their pork ribs platter was great, complete with macaroni pie and only $17.50. If you’re in a hurry, it’s a smart suggestion. (Numerous locations; check chefette.com for the one nearest you.)
Richard Ouzounian’s Six Meals column usually appears the first Saturday of each month.
by Richard Ouzounian, thestar.com October 8th 2012
THE CLIFF — I had heard of this legendary restaurant long before I ever arrived in Barbados and I wondered if anything could live up to its reputation. I was instantly blown away by its setting, hugging a cliff wall, overlooking the ocean. You walk in at the level of the cocktail area, then descend steep steps to a dining room that’s just close enough to the sea to be magical. And the food is just as grand. My meal began with a perfectly prepared linguine and shrimp in a subtle chive sauce, went on to a perfectly prepared barracuda steak and ended with a flaming snowball, the first ignited dessert I’ve ever really enjoyed, with a tart, adult taste. Superb service, great food and a view you’ll never forget. Yes, a complete meal will cost $140 (Canadian), but it’s truly worth it. (Derricks, St. James; (246) 432-1922; thecliffbarbados.com)
CIN CIN BY THE SEA — This is really the kind of restaurant you’d expect to find in Malibu or on Florida’s Gold Coast. It’s sleek, elegant, super-modern and blessed with floor to ceiling windows that let you enjoy the glistening sea outside. I went at lunchtime and couldn’t think of a better place to spend a sunny afternoon, especially enjoying a moist Caribbean crab cake to start, followed by some perfectly sautéed snapper that couldn’t have been fresher. And, OK, I had the white chocolate cheesecake for dessert. I’m only human. Plan on about $40 for three courses. (Prospect, St. James; (246) 424-4557; cincinbarbados.com)
BROWN SUGAR — After all the elegance of the first two places I encountered, it was a change and a treat to spend an evening enjoying real Bajan food. This popular place is down the end of a leafy road, with the genuine charm of a heritage home. And the food has the same authenticity. I began with Barbadian Hots, which are strips of local fish marinated in zesty spices and fried crisp. Then I went onto Martin’s Choice, a mixed platter of flying fish, mahi-mahi, shrimp and crab. I was told it would be a mistake to miss the Paw Paw (warm papaya) pie, so I didn’t. $50 for a complete meal that will fill you up nicely. (Bridgetown, Bay St.; (246) 426-7684; brownsugarbarbados.com)
CUZ’S FISH SHACK — One of the great culinary snacks of Barbados is a “cutter,” a salt-bread bun filled with egg, cheese, flying fish, pork, or ham and then cut in half. Some say that’s the origin of the name, others say it’s because it “cuts” your hunger. Whatever story you go with, this Bridgetown location is the best place to try one. It really is just a shack, open from 9-5 each day and there’s usually a lineup that’s well deserved. The simplicity of the peppery breading on the marlin sandwich, combined with a sprinkle of vinegar and some zesty pickles make it one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. Honest! $4 a sandwich. Amazing. (Highway 7, Needham’s Point, Bridgetown; no phone, no website.)
WATERSIDE RESTAURANT — They refer to the atmosphere here as “Caribbean Chic” and that’s an excellent definition of this sophisticated eatery. Once again, there’s an unforgettable view of the water, but the menu here is decidedly different and very skilled. Breadfruit soup with smoked marlin is an amazing starter, five-spiced braised beef short ribs was a welcome hearty alternative after all the local fish and the pistachio crème brûlée rounded things off nicely. $65 for the full meal deal. (St. Lawrence Gap, Christchurch; (246) 418-9750; watersiderest.com)
CHEFETTE — OK, I normally wouldn’t recommend a fast-food chain in this column, but this is something different. Chefette has 14 locations around the island, offering burgers, rotis, pizza etc. — but it’s their BBQ Barns that grabbed my attention. I mean, how often do you find grilled mahi-mahi on a menu like this? And, surprise! It was really tasty and only $15 for a giant portion. Their pork ribs platter was great, complete with macaroni pie and only $17.50. If you’re in a hurry, it’s a smart suggestion. (Numerous locations; check chefette.com for the one nearest you.)
Richard Ouzounian’s Six Meals column usually appears the first Saturday of each month.
by Richard Ouzounian, thestar.com October 8th 2012
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